Archive for the ‘Cats’ Category

Top 10 tips for pets this firework season

As we move towards Bonfire Night, Diwali and New Year’s Eve, our love for fireworks has created an entire season of celebrations. While it’s exciting to have multiple opportunities to revel in the festivities, we must keep in mind that not everyone shares our enthusiasm. Our beloved pets, for instance, may not enjoy the noise and commotion caused by fireworks. To ensure the safety of your cats, dogs, and other pets during this firework season, we’ve compiled a list of ten helpful tips in this blog.

TIP 1: DESENSITISE YOUR DOGS AND CATS

If your pet is afraid of the loud noises, start desensitisation therapy as early as you can. Try downloading firework sound effects from Dogs Trust and play them very, very quietly. Reward your pet for staying calm, and over weeks or even months, gradually increase the volume so they get used to the sound.

TIP 2: MAKE SURE THEY ARE MICROCHIPPED

Panicking pets tend to run, but they’re not so fussy where they run to! If they DO escape and are microchipped you can be sure you’ll be reunited again.

TIP 3: USE PHEROMONES

There are pheromone products available for cats and dogs such as Feliway and Adaptil. They are very effective at reducing stress and anxiety levels. Start using them at least 2-3 weeks before fireworks season starts if possible.

TIP 4: TRY OUT SOME CALMERS

There are a wide range of herbal and nutritional calmers on the market; some of which we stock and can recommend. Although the evidence for Zylkene isn’t conclusive, we think it really can help settle animals down if given over a prolonged period!

TIP 5: BUILD A NICE NEST

Your pets need to be kept safe and secure, with a suitable nest or den to hide in. This is especially important for dogs and cats, but also applies to rabbits and small furries kept in open cages or hutches. Make sure they can hide themselves away when the displays start!

TIP 6: KEEP YOUR ANIMALS SAFELY INDOORS

It may be a little tricky but make sure your cat and dog are safely inside. Not only will it stop them escaping (and then potentially coming to harm), but it will also muffle any scary sounds and frightening lights.

TIP 7: LIGHTPROOF AND SOUNDPROOF HUTCHES, CAGES AND AVIARIES

If possible, rabbits and other small pets in cages or hutches should also be brought inside — or at least, away from sight and sound of the fireworks. For example, a large hutch can usually be moved into a garage or shed. For cage birds, the aviary isn’t usually movable, but the bright flashes can panic birds into a smother. As a result, we recommend carefully covering the aviary (while leaving lots of air-holes!) to minimise any risk.

TIP 8: KEEP TO A NORMAL ROUTINE

Many pets are very sensitive to changes in routine and timing and can put them on edge. So as much as possible, keep everything the same. You really don’t need any extra stress — and neither do they!

TIP 9: DON’T REWARD FEARFUL BEHAVIOUR

Of course, if your dog is afraid, your cat is scared, or your rabbit is terrified, it’s only natural to try and comfort them. However, you need to be careful. Excessive fuss and treats can reinforce the fearful behaviour — as they learn this is what they need to do to get your attention! As a rule of thumb, make a moderate fuss of them if they come to you, but don’t go to them, or dramatically change the way you react. Remember, pets can pick up on our stress levels as well as vice versa, so it can spiral out of control!

TIP 10: COME AND TALK TO US

If your pet is really, really stressed and you’re worried they’ll hurt themselves — come and talk to us. Not only can we give you personalised and tailored advice, but our vets can, if necessary, prescribe anti-anxiety medications to relieve short-term stress, fear and panic.

Pet Eye Health Awareness Week

Can you recognise the seven common signs of poor pet eye health? We are taking part in National Pet Eye Health Awareness Week (18-24 September) in partnership with TVM UK who have shared the most important things to look out for.

1. Asymmetry

Careful observation of the way your pet looks and acts and what is classed as ‘normal’ for them is the first critical step for responsible pet care. Regarding eye health, any perceived changes in your pet’s eyes can be a good indication of whether or not a trip to your vet is warranted. Do both eyes look like each other, are the face and head symmetrical when comparing right to left?

Useful Observations:

Do they both look shiny and clear, not dull, cloudy, or dry?
Are the pupils the same size and shape?
Is one eye squinting?
Is one eye runny with watery or sticky discharge?
Is the colour the same? Does one look red? Has the iris suddenly changed colour?

If one eye is showing differences from the other eye or any of the above clinical signs, please get your pet checked by your vet as soon as possible.

2. Irritation

Eyes are extremely sensitive and easily irritated – did you know that the cornea has around 20-40 times more nerve endings than the tooth root? And most of us know how painful toothache is…

If you believe that your pet is suffering from eye irritation you should contact your vet for advice as irritation can be a sign of eye pain or itchiness.

Symptoms that may suggest that your pet is suffering from eye irritation:

Pawing/rubbing at their eye/s
Redness
Squinting or excessive blinking
Excessive tear staining
Sticky or runny discharge
Light sensitivity
Swollen skin around the eyes
Dullness or cloudiness of the eye
Different pupil sizes

Some common reasons which may cause eye irritation in your pet:

Allergies
Conjunctivitis
Foreign object in the eye
Eyelid Abnormalities
Trauma
Corneal scratches/ulcers
Irritants – smoke, shampoo, etc
Dry eye (poor tear film)

Eye problems can be very painful and go from bad to worse very quickly so don’t delay in seeking advice and treatment from your vet!

3. Blindness

Like us, pets often experience gradually failing eyesight as they approach their senior years and due to compensation using their other, superior, senses like smell and hearing, gradual sight loss may not be easily noticed by pet owners.

However, there are many other conditions that can cause your pet to go blind relatively suddenly at any age, so it is important to be vigilant of sudden changes or symptoms.

Symptoms of acute eyesight loss you may notice are:

Changes in the appearance of the eye
Confusion/disorientation
Clumsiness – bumping into things
Easily startled or nervous
Slow and cautious movement
Getting lost outside
Unable to find toys, food dishes, water, etc.
Not wanting to go out at night

Conditions causing blindness are serious and need urgent treatment if there is any remaining chance to prevent total, permanent vision loss. Blindness can also be a result of many systemic diseases which can be damaging to other organ systems so it is extra important to get your pet checked and treated.

Conditions that can cause blindness:

Tumours in the eye
Eye injuries
Glaucoma
Brain disease – Aneurism, Stroke, Seizures, Tumours, or Infection
General Disease – e.g. diabetes, hyperthyroidism
Cataracts – more common in Miniature Poodles, Miniature Schnauzers, Cocker Spaniels, Golden Retrievers, Boston Terriers, and Siberian Huskies
Corneal disease
Dry eye
Retinal Disease
Inflammation inside the eye

4. Tear Staining

Tear stains are those reddish-brown marks that can appear on the fur around your pet’s eyes. These stains can be unsightly and noticeable, especially on pale fur.

Dog and cat tears naturally contain high amounts of porphyrins – these are iron-containing compounds derived from red blood cell breakdown in the body. When tears sit on the skin the porphyrin staining will intensify in the presence of light.

Not only that, when tears sit on the skin around the eye, they make it damp which favours local bacterial growth – some bacteria can produce their own porphyrins, therefore, contributing to tear staining.

Tear staining is more likely to occur in certain breeds where tears find their way onto the face more easily, rather than draining normally down the tear ducts. For instance, this may be due to the shape of the face, abnormalities of the tear ducts, or small hairs around the corners of the eye that wick tears onto the face.

In most cases tear staining is largely a cosmetic problem and your pet will lead an otherwise normal life, however, some patients with tear stains may have underlying eye problems which means they overproduce tears due to ocular irritation. These tears can then spill over onto the face resulting in tear staining. It is important to ensure underlying reasons for tear staining have been ruled out by a vet as, if ignored, the underlying problem may progress and be harder to treat.

5. Redness

Your pet’s eyes are as sensitive as your own and are just as susceptible to irritation, allergies, injury, and disease. One of the earliest signs of many eye problems is a red eye. If your pet’s eyes appear visibly red or swollen get them checked ASAP by your vet as some causes of a red eye are not only painful but can lead to permanent blindness if left untreated (such as glaucoma).

Common causes of redness:

Conjunctivitis
Allergies or irritants
Foreign object in the eye
Dry Eye
Injury
Uveitis (inflammation inside the eye)
Corneal Ulcers
Glaucoma
Cherry Eye

6. Dull, Cloudy, or Colour Change

Healthy eyes should be bright, clear, and shiny — if your pet’s eye suddenly looks cloudy or opaque this is a sure sign of an eye problem that needs to be examined by a vet!

Most often cloudiness is noticed in the cornea (the clear window at the front of the eye) or the lens- vision may be affected to varying degrees depending on the underlying cause.

Conditions most likely to cause cloudy or opaque eyes:

Cataracts
Uveitis- inflammation inside the eye
Pannus- autoimmune inflammation in the cornea, German Shepherds are predisposed
Injury or damage to the eye/s
Corneal ulcers or scratches
Dry Eye
Glaucoma

Nuclear Sclerosis is considered a normal ageing change in older pets where the lens takes on a cloudy or blueish haze – it doesn’t affect vision but can often be confused with cataracts at first glance. Your vet can easily distinguish between the two conditions by doing an eye exam.

7. Runny or Sticky Eye

Eye discharge is a common problem in pets. Some types are completely normal, while others may be associated with potentially serious health concerns. In order to determine when you need to take your pet to the vet, you’ll need to understand the various types of eye discharge and what each may mean.

5 most common types of eye discharge:

A little ‘gunk’ or crustiness – generally made out of dried tears, oil, mucus, dead cells, dust, etc. Typically, clear or a slightly reddish-brown colour that accumulates at the inside corners of the eyes. Most evident in the morning and is perfectly normal, with the amount produced each day being relatively constant. It should be easily removed with a damp cloth or eye cleansing solution made for pets. The eyes shouldn’t be red and shouldn’t exhibit any signs of discomfort.
Watery Eyes – Excessive eye watering (AKA epiphora) is associated with many different conditions that can range from being relatively minor to more serious. Below are some of the common causes of watery eyes in pets:
- Allergies
- Irritants
- Foreign body in the eye
- Anatomical abnormalities (e.g. rolled in eyelids)
- Blocked tear ducts
- Corneal wounds
- Glaucoma (increased eye pressure)

Your pet may have simply received an eyeful of pollen or dust, and the increased tearing is working to solve the problem. If eyes continue to water or your pet develops red, painful eyes or other types of eye discharge, make an appointment with your vet.

Reddish-Brown Tear Stains – many pets, especially those with light-coloured fur, develop a reddish-brown discolouration to the fur near the inner corner of their eyes. This occurs because tears contain a pigment called porphyrin that turns reddish-brown with prolonged exposure to air. In most cases tear staining is cosmetic and can be removed with eye cleansers however sometimes it may be due to an underlying disease causing excess tearing so it is advisable to get tear stains checked by a vet.
White-Grey Mucus – This can be a sign of Dry Eye (AKA keratoconjunctivitis sicca), a condition where the tear film becomes inadequate. A normal tear film is vital for good eye health so the body tries to compensate by making more mucus to try and lubricate the eyes. Left untreated Dry Eye can result in severe discomfort and potentially even blindness.
Yellow or Green Eye Discharge – pets whose eyes produce yellow or green discharge often have conjunctivitis or an eye infection.

If you have any concerns, get in touch with your local Goddard vet for advice, or make an appointment online.

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How to easily clean your cat’s ears at home

Cats are great at grooming themselves, generally keeping clean and tidy without any assistance. However, sometimes they need a helping paw with cleaning their ears. Whilst ears are self-cleaning, inflammation, infection, or polyps can create discharge and extra nasty gunk that needs to be removed.

Cleaning your cat’s ears can be a little tricky compared to grooming your canine companions. Cats can be very sensitive in the area around their ears, and don’t always appreciate your best efforts to help them clean!

But don’t worry, we know you have their best interests at heart. In this guide, experts from Goddard Vet Group will give you the best advice to help you with the ear-cleaning process.

Preparation

If you think your cat’s ears need cleaning, it’s important to check with a vet before attempting any home remedies. Itching, scratching, and a build-up of wax can all be indicators that they need a clean, however, these are also symptoms of other issues such as infection, fleas, mites, and more. These will all need to be treated properly with the appropriate medication.

What you’ll need…

Ear cleaning solution – it’s very important that you use ear cleaning products specifically made for cats. Using something wrong here could cause permanent damage to your cat’s hearing and balance.
Cotton wool balls/pads – to help clean, wipe, and dry your cat’s ears. Just don’t use Q-tips!
A towel/blanket – wrapping your cat in a towel or blanket can help to both hold them in position and keep them comfortable.
Assistance – not all cats will be very accepting of your help! Sometimes it can be beneficial to have an extra pair of hands to support you.
Lots and lots of treats – rewarding your cat with treats throughout the process can help acclimate them to cleaning and treatments, creating a positive association

How to clean cat ears: step-by-step guide

Make sure your cat is positioned comfortably either in your lap or on a flat surface facing away from you. Wrapping them in a blanket or towel can help to stop them from wriggling around. Have treats available nearby!
Roll the cleaning solution bottle in your hand to warm up the liquid so it’s not as cold before applying it into the ear.
Apply the cleaning solution to the cotton wool and gently clean around the opening of the ear canal and the pinna (the pointy bit of the ear!).
Gently pressing the cotton wool will cause some of the cleaner to enter the ear canal, helping to bring out any debris. Use some dry cotton wool to wipe this away.
Continue for as long as you think is necessary, or as long as your cat will allow, before moving on to the next ear. If your cat has an ear problem, you may need to schedule regular ear-cleaning sessions to help with treatment.

If you need further advice, book an appointment with your local Goddard vet practice, or get in touch with our Central Clinical Team at 020 8506 9944.

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How to trim your cat’s claws at home

Cats love to keep themselves neat and tidy! However, even the most well-groomed cats can have problems with the length of their claws and need help to keep them short.

Nailing trimming is a vital part of your cat’s health and well-being, but it may leave you feeling overwhelmed if you don’t know where to start. Fortunately, there are simple steps that you can take to ensure that trimming your cat’s claws goes as smoothly as possible – hopefully without any scratches!

Preparation

All cats are different, each with their own personalities and temperaments. There’s a chance your cat will have no problems with you helping them to groom, but some of your feline friends will not be quite as accepting! If you spot that your cat’s nails need a trim, it’s important to make all the necessary preparations so that they’re comfortable and happy.

If your cat is particularly wriggly, nervous, has black nails or you notice that they are growing into the skin – do not attempt to clip them yourself. It’s better to seek advice and help from a vet than either you or your cat getting an injury!

How to tell if my cat’s claws need trimming

If your cat’s nails are left to grow too long, this can create mobility problems and even cause them pain if they aren’t trimmed. Here are some warning signs that they need clipping:

They are visible when the cat is resting and not actively extending
You can hear them tapping when the cat is walking on hard
You notice them catching on carpets or blankets.

Which clippers are best for cat claws?

It’s best to use small pet clippers, either with a plier-like design or a sliding “guillotine” blade. However, it is okay to use small human nail clippers, as long as they are sharp. Never use human nail scissors.

Before you start:

Pick a time of day when your cat is most relaxed to trim their
Ensure you have good lighting so you can clearly see what you are
Always have a steady supply of treats available to reward your cat during the process!

How to easily trim your cat’s claws: A step-by-step guide

Firstly, position your cat so that they’re facing away from Ideally this would be on your lap, although a flat surface in front of you is also fine. It can be useful to wrap your cat in a towel with one leg free so that you can keep them still and secure.
If you are concerned that your cat may bite you at this stage, please book a nurse appointment at your local Goddard vet practice and they will be able to clip the nails and teach you to feel safe doing it at home
Take your cat’s paw and gently press the top of each toe to extend the claw outward. Remember to take extra care with your handling if your cat is nervous or elderly, as this could be a sensitive
Examine the claw carefully, and just snip off the transparent tip using your clippers. Don’t clip down near the pinkish area of the nail known as “the quick”, as this contains blood vessels, nerves and other tissues. Cutting near this area can be painful and cause bleeding.
If you do accidentally catch the quick and the nail bleeds, apply firm pressure with a tissue or clean towel. If the bleeding doesn’t stop after approximately five minutes of pressure, contact your vet.
Reward your cat with a treat! It’s best to give your cat a break after you’ve finished with each paw. Rewarding them with a treat is a great way to get them used to the process and to form positive
Slowly work your way through each paw. If your cat becomes too anxious, it’s best to stop and try again another time. But hopefully, if you follow this process, you should have no problems clipping your cat’s nails successfully!

If you need further advice, book an appointment with your local Goddard vet practice, or get in touch with our Central Clinical Team at 020 8506 9944.

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How Can I Tell If My Pet’s Overweight?

It can be hard, we know! However, our vets and nurses can weigh your pet and assess their body condition score (BCS) which is a method of categorising weight, ranging from 1 (very thin) to 5 (obese), with 3 being normal and healthy. You can also do some checks at home:

Look from above. Your pet should go in a little at the waist. If not, they may be overweight.
Feeling along the side of the chest, you should be able to feel the ribs. They should not be under a thick layer of fat, but they should also not be sticking out.
Feeling along the back of your pet, the spine and hip bones should not be sticking out but should be easy to feel.
Look and feel underneath your pet for any bulges.

It’s estimated that around 60% of dogs and 39-52% of cats in the UK are overweight or obese. A report by Royal Canin found 80% of dog owners stated their pet was an ideal weight, but 40% knew neither their pet’s weight nor body condition score. 74% of cat owners believed their cat was an ideal weight, but nearly two thirds (65%) acknowledged not knowing their cat’s current weight and/or body condition score.

Does it matter if my pet is overweight?

Pets who are a healthy weight are more likely to enjoy a happy and healthy life. Here are some reasons why:

Older pets often suffer from degenerative joint disease (arthritis). Being overweight can speed the progression of arthritis and the pain caused, ultimately reducing the quality and quantity of their life. Simple mechanics mean a dog weighing 20 kg that should weigh 15kg will place 33% more force through each limb. Even a small weight reduction can make a huge difference to their quality of life.
Being overweight increases the chance of diabetes in dogs and cats. Diabetes shortens life, can come with complications, and usually requires lifelong insulin injections. This poses a significant time and financial commitment for owners.
Obesity is not known to increase the risk of coronary heart disease as in people, but it does have adverse effects on cardiac and pulmonary function and blood pressure.
Operations are more risky for all pets that are overweight.
Rabbits naturally eat a part of their faeces known as caecotrophs, which helps recycle enzymes enabling them to digest roughage. If they are overweight, they will not be able to groom or to reach their bottom to eat these caecotrophs.
Obese or overweight cats are more at risk of hepatic lipidosis and lower urinary tract disease, both of which can be very serious or even fatal.

What can I do?

We can check your pet’s body condition score and weight, and perform an examination looking for other health issues, especially ones that may be weight related.

We can recommend a regime to help your pet lose weight, but it is important not to lose weight too rapidly. We aim for no more than 1-2% of their starting weight each week.

If they are only slightly overweight then feeding a bit less, or changing to a lower-calorie food may be all that’s needed. Pets needing more drastic weight loss may need a special diet, as reducing their food too much may mean they go hungry or with insufficient nutrients. A food diary for a week may highlight where your pet is getting extra calories. Each weight loss plan we suggest is individual and would involve exercise as part of the weight loss regime, but here are some general points:

Good pet food companies produce food for varying life-stages, as a developing pup, for example, will have different needs to an ageing dog.
Take the nutritional information of your current food along to your appointment and our team can assess if it’s appropriate for your pet.
Feeding a complete commercial pet food is the easiest way to ensure your pet gets the nutrients they need. Use feeding guidelines and weigh the food out. It seems obvious, but pets that eat too much get fat.
Treats and scraps on top of a complete food will unbalance the diet and most likely be turned into fat.
Pet lifestyle makes a difference. In the same way, an elite athlete will need more calories than an office-worker, a working greyhound or sheepdog will need more calories than a sedentary dog.
If considering a diet change, do it slowly to avoid upsetting the gut.

Dogs:

Prefer regular mealtimes. Ideally, split your dog’s daily food into two equal-sized meals, meaning your dog will be less hungry and eat more slowly. It may also help them sleep and make it less tempting to treat.

Cats:

Are obligate carnivores, meaning they cannot survive without meat. They cannot produce an amino acid called taurine (a protein building block) which can only be found in meat. Without it, they can develop a severe heart condition called dilated cardiomyopathy and even blindness. Their gut is not designed to digest a plant-based diet, just like a cow’s gut is not designed for a meat-based diet.
Prefer to graze, eating 8-16 times daily, so have food available all the time weighing out the daily quota. Most cats are very good at self-regulating but some are greedy, and with these cats, meals may be needed.
That drink milk often gets tummy upsets due to the lactose.

Rabbits should:

Eat around 50% of the time so they need at least their body size in good quality hay per day to keep boredom at bay, to keep their gut health and to keep their continually growing teeth worn down.
Have a handful of fresh vegetables, morning and evening. They love carrots, but as they are high in sugar, use them sparingly.
Have an eggcup of commercial rabbit nuggets (NOT muesli-type mix) once a day if under 3.5kg, or twice a day if larger. If fed too many nuggets, they may eat less hay and veg which are both vital for rabbit health.