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Does my bunny need a buddy?

Yes – every bunny needs someBunny!

Rabbits are extremely social animals, they need company. In the wild, rabbits live in groups in warrens where they all look out for each other – they huddle together to keep warm and they warn each other if predators are about. Pet rabbits love to play, relax, sleep, eat and groom together.

Rabbits do enjoy human company when we can give this to them, but remember, with all the will in the world – our lives are busy, and even if we can spend a few hours a day with our rabbits that still leaves a huge 20+ hours when they are alone. What’s more, rabbits are often most active at dawn and dusk – just when we are hitting the snooze button on the alarm, or getting the dinner ready!

What is the best pairing?

The best pairing is usually a male and a female. It is important to have them both neutered (castrated for the males and spayed for the females). This can be done as soon as they are old enough – speak to your vet about when is the best time for your rabbits. Avoid just neutering one rabbit, as this may result in one calm bunny and one frustrated over-amorous one! Not only does neutering prevent unwanted pregnancies and prevents uterine cancer in females, it can also reduce fighting and is necessary when trying to bond your rabbits.

If you are looking for a companion for your bunny, consider rehoming a rabbit from a rescue centre. Often they have already been vaccinated and neutered, and you will be giving a home to a bunny in need. Some rescue centres will even help with introducing your rabbit to its new friend and will allow you to bring your rabbit along to meet a potential partner in a neutral territory. Some offer boarding to supervise the bonding process for you.

What is the best way to introduce a new bunny?

Bunnies are very sociable but they can also be quite territorial. Introducing two bunnies to each other requires supervision, perseverance and time.

First of all, put your rabbits in nearby enclosures – where they can see and smell each other but are separated by a wire fence.

Once they are used to the sight and smell of each other, place the rabbits together for a short period of time in a neutral space – somewhere new for both rabbits, to reduce the risk of any territorial squabbling. Ensure plenty of food, hay and distractions are available – enough for both rabbits, in separate piles. Provide cardboard boxes and tunnels for them to hide in. Supervise the rabbits while they are together, and if you notice any signs of tension then separate the rabbits and try again later.

Repeat this process until the rabbits are comfortable with each other. When they are grooming or lying with each other they can be left unsupervised. This can take anything from a few hours, to months depending on the rabbits!

Once they are bonded together, keep them together, as periods of time away from each other will cause them stress. If you need to take them to the vets, take both rabbits together so they can give each other company and comfort.

Housing

Ensure your bunnies have plenty of room; the Rabbit Welfare Association recommend a minimum hutch size of at least 6’ x 2’ which allows rabbits some room to move, stand on their hind legs, and enough space for the food, toilet and sleeping areas to be kept apart. They should be able to perform at least 3 consecutive hops or ‘binkies’ (not steps). Larger breeds will need more space than this. Importantly, a hutch should not be their only living space – it should be attached to a secure run of at least 8’ x 4’. Bear in mind, these are the minimum recommendations – as with most things in life, bigger is better!

There is pure joy to witnessing a bonded, loved up bunny duo together; you’ll never want to keep a solitary rabbit again. It’s never too late, even for bunnies in their twilight years.

Rabbit Vaccinations: Are they necessary?

In the UK we currently recommend vaccinating rabbits against two diseases; myxomatosis and rabbit viral haemorrhagic disease (RHD). To understand why vaccinations are so important we need to know what they are protecting our rabbits against.

Myxomatosis

What is it?
Myxomatosis is a disease caused by the myxoma virus and has been present in the UK since 1953. There are different strains of the virus which can result in different forms of the disease some more severe than others (see below). In unprotected rabbits, the disease is usually fatal and so prevention is strongly recommended.

What are the symptoms?
There are two types of myxomatosis, nodular (lumpy) and oedematous (swollen) but the latter is the most common and the most lethal. Symptoms begin between 4-10 days after infection;

Oedematous (swollen) Type Nodular (lumpy) Type
  • Swelling around the eyes, mouth, bottom and/or genitals
  • Decreased appetite
  • Dull behaviour
  • Light sensitivity
  • Secondary infections (eyes, nose, lungs)
  • Weight loss
  • Difficulty breathing (end stage) and death
  • Lumps in and/or under the skin
  • Lumps become ulcerated (open wound) but can heal over
  • Secondary infections

It is possible for rabbits to get a mixed form with symptoms from both types of the disease which may be milder. The oedematous form acts quickly and after around 1-2 weeks of symptoms rabbits will die from starvation and difficulty breathing.


How do rabbits get it?
Rabbits can become infected with the virus from direct contact with other infected rabbits but also from being bitten by blood sucking-insects with the virus. These insects become carriers when they feed on infected rabbits but don’t become ill themselves, allowing them to move on and feed on another rabbit passing on the infection. Any blood-sucking insect can be a carrier but fleas and mosquitoes are the most common and because mosquitoes can fly long distances, they also help spread the disease to new areas.

Can you treat it?
Treatment of the oedematous form is usually hopeless, particularly if the rabbit is already having difficulty eating or breathing. Due to this our vets sadly will most likely recommend euthanasia to stop the rabbit from suffering. Rabbits with a mixed form of the disease may be able to survive with supportive care if the disease is mild. Supportive treatment is typically aimed at maintaining adequate nutrition and alleviating other symptoms while the immune system clears the virus. This may include;

  • Fluid therapy
  • Syringe feeding
  • Antibiotics if there is a secondary infection
  • Anti-inflammatories for the swelling
  • Active warming

How can I prevent it?
Rabbits can be vaccinated against myxomatosis from 5 weeks old. This vaccine should be repeated every year to maintain adequate protection. Rabbits in high-density populations such as those used for breeding can be vaccinated every 6 months. Vaccinated rabbits can still become infected with the virus but the symptoms are normally very mild and treatable.

You can reduce the risk of infection further by ensuring your rabbit does not have contact with wild rabbits which may be infected, or eat food from areas where wild rabbits live. Protect your rabbits from insects that may carry the disease by using insect screens and flea prevention spot-ons. If you’re introducing a new rabbit, quarantine it for at least a fortnight to ensure it is not infected before exposing it to your current rabbit/s.

Rabbit Haemorrhagic Disease (RHD)

What is it?
RHD is a deadly disease caused by a calicivirus which can be transmitted both directly and indirectly. The RHD virus is currently divided into subtypes including RHD1 and RHD2. The virus has been present in Europe since 1988 but a recent outbreak of RHD2 in the UK started in 2013 and has caused a large number of rabbit deaths.

What are the symptoms?
Sadly, one of the most common symptoms of RHD is sudden death, with many owners believing their rabbit died of “fright” or a heart attack. External symptoms are not always seen and so many rabbits dying from RHD are not known, meaning the disease is likely more widespread than we think. The disease acts so quickly (within 1-3 days of infection) that rabbits can look completely normal the day before. Possible symptoms include;

  • Sudden death
  • Bleeding from the nose/mouth/bottom
  • Lethargy
  • Decreased appetite
  • Difficulty breathing
  • Fever (early)
  • Seizures
  • Vocalising
  • Collapse

A mild form of the disease does exist but this is very uncommon and those rabbits are normally just generally unwell with non-specific symptoms which often mean we do not recognise they have RHD.

How do rabbits get it?
The virus can survive in the environment for many months, especially when it’s cold, allowing it to cause disease outbreaks year after year. RHD can infect rabbits directly through bodily fluids such as faeces/urine/saliva and mating as well as indirectly by contaminated objects such as clothing/cages/bedding/food/humans as well as insects, birds and rodents carrying the disease. There is even suspicion the virus can be carried on the wind. Blood-sucking insects such as mosquitoes and fleas can cause the virus to spread quickly and over considerable distances.

Can you treat it?
RHD is usually fatal and cannot be treated so vaccinating your rabbit is strongly recommended to prevent them from getting it. We may be able to provide some supportive care to infected rabbits but normally our vets will recommend euthanasia to alleviate suffering. Rabbits known, or suspected, of being infected should be isolated from all other rabbits and strict hygiene protocols used to prevent the virus from being transported elsewhere. All equipment and housing should be thoroughly disinfected and cleaned.

How can I prevent it?
Vaccines exist in the UK for both the RHD1 and RHD2 types of the virus. As there is no way of predicting when a rabbit may become infected with RHD, vaccination to protect every rabbit is the best-recommended action. Vaccines can be given from 4-5 weeks old and then a booster every 6-12 months is advised as the reported duration of immunity is 9 months-1 year. In the UK the RHD1 vaccine can be given at the same time as the myxomatosis vaccine, then the RHD2 vaccine is licensed to be given a minimum of two weeks later.

Where possible you can try and limit exposure of your rabbit to RHD by quarantining any new rabbits, using insect screens and flea spot-ons, and avoiding contact with wild birds and rodents. General hygiene is also important; we advise that all objects (e.g. water bottles, bowls, cleaning equipment) are cleaned and disinfected regularly as well as your rabbit’s housing. Bedding should be changed regularly and along with hay, should be sourced from a supplier where it has been grown with no known infected wild rabbits.

Conclusion: Is vaccination necessary?
There has been a lot of concern in recent years about over-vaccinating our pets and whether annual vaccination is needed. Given the large number of deaths reported for both diseases and the ability for these diseases to spread to different geographical locations we feel vaccination is essential to protect all rabbits as there are no “safe areas”. In rabbits, a single vaccine has only been shown to provide protection for 9-12 months when vaccinated rabbits are challenged with RHD2, which is why we recommend that you give your rabbits annual vaccinations. Additionally, one study showed that cross-immunity between RHD1 and RHD2 was minimal and so both vaccines are needed to ensure adequate protection.

The trouble with tapeworms

Tapeworms are a common problem. The infection can be caught from multiple areas and environments; however, some conditions make them more likely to be transmitted.

What is a tapeworm?

They are long, flat worms that live in your pet’s intestines. Most species can be infected and the larvae are often ingested by dogs while they groom, or from the soil or grass. They travel to the intestine where they attach to the mucous lining, using their strong mouthpieces, and grow into adults. They can grow up to 8 inches in length and, when mature, produce proglottids (segments) which grow from the end of the worm. Tapeworms are made from lots of segments, all of which have their own reproductive parts allowing their numbers to multiply rapidly as they constantly reproduce. These segments become gravid (pregnant with a pack of eggs encircled in a membrane) and are passed in the pets’ faeces, where they burst releasing tapeworm eggs onto the grass or material beneath them. These eggs are ingested by an intermediate host (normally a flea or a rodent), which is then eaten by your pets. The eggs are released and hatch into tiny tapeworm heads, which mature into adult worms inside your pet over 2 months or so.

Is my pet likely to get tapeworm?

There are lots of different types of tapeworm, each with different intermediate hosts, meaning tapeworm can be caught from various sources. The tapeworm eggs can live in the environment in grass and soil, carpets and dust, so it is hard to eliminate the process of infection as we cannot keep this permanently clean. The flea is a common intermediate host, so keeping your pets away from any fleas, or areas where you know there will be a high flea count can help to prevent your pet from becoming infected.

Fleas commonly live on cats so if your pets spend lots of time with cats they are more likely to pick up the infection. Fleas thrive in areas which are moist, humid and shaded. If your dog has fleas, they will be itching excessively so they may appear to have bald patches, redness of the skin, and potentially wounds, or even blood. Regularly treating your pet for fleas would be a good preventative treatment for this type of tapeworm. Reinfection can occur if a new flea (also infected) is ingested, so one preventative treatment will not usually be enough.

Mice and rodents can be carriers too so, if possible, reduce the access your pets have to areas which may be infested. If your cat likes to hunt or rummage through bins, they are more likely to pick up tapeworm from these sources. If you know an area is likely to be habituated by rodents, try to keep your dog on a lead whilst walking through these areas. This allows you to have more control over your pet, helping to prevent them from eating infectious material.

What are the symptoms of tapeworm?

Tapeworms can cause lots of different health problems. If your pet is infected, you may see small white objects, that look like grains of rice, around the tail or in the faeces. They may even be moving! These segments stick to bedding or rugs where your pet spends a lot of time so if you suspect an infection, be sure to investigate these locations and clean them thoroughly. Your pet may itch their rear end a lot as the larvae become stuck in the area, irritating it. If the burden is much larger, weight loss may be seen.

If your pet has worms living inside the intestines, they may show weight loss and have lower energy levels compared to normal. This is because the worms are stealing their nutrients. You may notice a difference in eating habits, as they often lose their appetite and then quickly become very hungry again. Their coat may become duller looking. Blood may be seen in the faeces, so careful investigation of the stool using gloves could be useful – or just ask us about it if you prefer! You may see worms or white eggs in the faeces. The heavier the worm burden, the more serious the symptoms become; it is therefore very important to treat this infection as soon as possible.

If any symptoms are seen, please call or visit the practice for more specific information on treatment and we can help return your pet to normal health as soon as possible!

Unfortunately, lots of animals show no symptoms.

Can I catch tapeworm from my pet?

People are rarely infected by tapeworm, but these infections do occur. You cannot catch the infection directly from your dog. The human infection occurs when the human ingests a flea carrying the infection. Fleas often live on animals, so if people are commonly in close contact with animals they are much more likely to become infected. This is more common in children compared to adults.

Summary – DO NOT WORRY ABOUT TAPEWORM, but DO TREAT IT. It is very common and treatment is available. If you notice a sudden change in behaviour or weight, contact one of our vets!

Becoming a Veterinary Nurse

If you have a passion for animal health and welfare, an interest in science and yearn to be part of a varied profession with a plethora of opportunities to develop your career, veterinary nursing could be for you.

At Goddard Vets we see a bright future for the veterinary nursing profession and we are delighted to promote and support it in our very own, direct way. Setting up our veterinary nurse (VN) training college in 2005, we are proud to offer aspiring VNs the opportunity to complete a Diploma in Veterinary Nursing. We currently employ and train 30 student nurses to our own high standards, producing a workforce of skilled, knowledgeable and well respected VNs. Fully certified by Central Qualifications, our training course prepares and qualifies students for the world of work in veterinary nursing; most going on to join our current, registered team, already 91 nurses strong across the group.

Qualification criteria

Whilst the role of a VN is undoubtedly a very practical one, it is underpinned by the necessity to have a good grasp of mathematics, science and written English. From calculating medication doses to understanding the physiology of animals and communicating well with a team, it is easy to see why minimum entry requirements onto a course such as this include a grade 4 or above (C for slightly more mature applicants) in GCSE maths, English and a biological science or equivalent – there is a very practical need for these subjects. Should you fall short of the criteria, it is never too late to gain maths and English GCSEs and we are happy to announce our Veterinary Care Assistant (VCA) course which can replace the science element. Usually taking one year to complete, the VCA course benefits from a highly tailored approach to the science required for veterinary nursing as well as many other valuable animal health and husbandry modules.

The diploma: Teaching and learning methods

Our diploma combines theory based study with practical learning which reflects the nature of the VN role in practice. Most student VNs will complete our course within two and a half or three years. The first two years involves the teaching of the theoretical elements on a day-release scheme at college, whilst learning much of the practical side working in practice. Time spent in the classroom within a small class of fellow students will teach you the theory that underpins the practical side of the job; fascinating and vitally important in order to be the best VN that you can be. Physiology and anatomy, anaesthesia and medical nursing are just some topics covered which will leave you feeling excited and enthused to put your knowledge into practice. Moving into the third year, college time concentrates on fine-tuning practical skills when students learn and are assessed on tasks such as blood taking, intravenous catheter placement, anaesthetic monitoring, bandaging, medicating, infection control and many more elements.

Facilities and people

We are proud of the super-supportive environment that our students get to learn in. Our highly trained and knowledgeable lecturers are also very personable and encouraging. Teaching in relatively small class sizes means they have the time to invest in the needs of individual students, and provide a great deal of support so that every student VN gets the most from our course.

Our facilities include a purpose-built training room packed to the brim with much of the equipment required to learn the practical skills of a VN; from anaesthetic machines and patient breathing circuits, to laboratory and X-ray equipment. Our students learn how to make blood slides for the microscope; how to test urine; how to set up for, and monitor, anaesthesia; how to bandage patients; how to take X-rays; how to set up and calculate fluid therapy rates and much, much more… and all within the familiar environment that is our training room, and with friendly, patient professionals on hand to guide.

Beyond the diploma

Once you’ve gained your professional qualification, the support and development doesn’t stop there. Many nurses stay within the group where there is lots of potential for continued learning and career development. Registered VNs must complete a number of learning hours each year in order to remain on the register; we at Goddard Veterinary Group value the worth of continued learning in a field that is constantly changing, growing and developing. As such, we fully support and encourage continued learning, providing our nurses with a financial budget to do so.

So, might your love for animals move you towards veterinary nursing? If yes, please do get in touch!

My Cat’s been Diagnosed with Hyperthyroidism – What Next?

Hyperthyroidism is a relatively common condition that we see a lot of in middle-aged to older cats. As the symptoms can be quite subtle initially, it is often mistaken for ‘natural aging’ or perhaps a stomach upset.

At first, owners may even be pleased at the change they notice in their cat, who is suddenly more active than before and has a bigger appetite. However, over the weeks it may be noticed that they are acting hyper, have been very vocal and seem to be losing weight. A few loose poos in the litter tray may have been found and the water bowl may need filling more regularly too.

When presented to us in the veterinary clinic, we will check these kitties from nose to tail and look for some of the tell-tale signs of hyperthyroidism, such as a fast heart rate or a small lump in their neck region (a goiter). As a first step, we will recommend a general blood test, which will include a thyroid hormone check.

If your cat is hyperthyroid, blood results will show a thyroxine (thyroid hormone) level that is much higher than it should be, confirming our suspicions. As hyperthyroidism negatively impacts a cat’s quality of life and is a progressive disease, it is important to address it as soon as possible.

My cat has been diagnosed with hyperthyroidism – now what?

Thankfully, this is a very treatable disease and there are several different options available to owners. Which route to go down will depend on your cat’s age, their overall health and temperament, convenience, accessibility and finances.  Most commonly, hyperthyroid cats are managed with long-term medication. This is available in several forms, including tablets, oral liquids and even a cream that is applied to the ears. The medical management option is generally very safe and is achievable for most owners. Cats do require frequent re-checks and blood tests throughout their life, ensuring the dose of their medication does not need to be altered.

For some, daily medicine may not be practical. This is true for owners with busy lifestyles or for cats that are not particularly co-operative! Luckily, there are several other options available:

  • A surgery whereby the affected thyroid gland(s) is removed is a possibility and this procedure has high success rates. Owners will be advised of the potential complications of both the anaesthetic and the surgery itself. Though this surgery can be quite expensive, in middle-aged cats it will mean less money spent over time as there should be no need for any long-term medicine once the surgery has been confirmed a success.
  • Another potential treatment is Radioactive Iodine Therapy. This is a specialist procedure that is only available in certain referral centres and can be cost prohibitive to some. For most, a single painless injection of the radioactive isotope is all that is needed to solve the issue forever. Afterwards, all treated cats must stay in the referral centre in isolation for several weeks and handled minimally as they are classed as ‘radioactive’.

It’s important to note that even those owners who opt for the surgical route or for the radioactive therapy will have to first stabilize their cats using medication. Though it can be tricky to medicate some cats, our staff are more than happy to discuss the various options available and to demonstrate how to medicate. Items such as pill poppers and pill pockets can be real game changers.

On top of what has already been discussed, there is also a dietary treatment option available to manage hyperthyroidism. It is a safe and effective way to manage hyperthyroidism as it contains limited amounts of Iodine. The issue with this therapy is that if cats eat anything else (treats, food from the outside or food from the other cat’s bowl), it becomes ineffective. Cats with other medical conditions may not be appropriate candidates for this diet but for many, it is a convenient choice.

With hyperthyroidism being the most frequently seen hormonal disease in cats, it is a condition which we are very familiar with and which has many effective treatment options.

Whichever road you and your cat decide to go down, we will be here to help and guide you every step of the way.