Archive for the ‘Dogs’ Category

How to Have a Pet-Friendly Christmas

For most humans, Christmas is when we meet up with friends, celebrate with rich food and drink, put up sparkling decorations and have a wonderful time! However, for our pets, it can be really tough. Stress from strangers in the house, a change of routine, unexpected hazards from decorations and tasty foods that prove to have nasty toxic side effects. So, what can we do to make the festive season pet-friendly?


MINIMISE STRESS

“God rest ye merry gentlemen let nothing you dismay…” But all those merry gentlemen certainly can dismay our pets! Almost all of them find the presence of strange people in the house stressful. Dogs may respond to this by aggression, destructive behaviours or hiding; rabbits freeze and try and stay motionless; whereas cats are more likely to start urine spraying, hide or just vanish for the duration. However, even an apparently excited and waggy dog may not be as happy as they seem – while some dogs genuinely do love company, others try and cope with the stress by being extra friendly.

Ideally, you should avoid putting your pet into a stressful situation at all. This means allowing them to have their own quiet space, away from people, minimising the amount of interaction with strangers (so those festive cat and dog costumes probably aren’t a good idea) and, as far as possible, keeping to their normal routine.

However, they aren’t going to be able to avoid the holiday season completely, so you will also have to look at managing their stress. For dogs and cats, the best approach is the use of pheromones – Feliway for cats and Adaptil for dogs. Sadly, there aren’t any products designed specifically for rabbits, but if your pet is really suffering, whatever their species, bring them down to see us and our vets can prescribe anti-anxiety medications that are very effective in the short-term.

AVOID ORNAMENT INJURIES

“Deck the halls with boughs of holly…” And fir trees, glass and plastic ornaments, ribbons, tinsel, lights and candles. All lovely to look at, all potentially dangerous! Cats often like to play with bright shiny things, but they can easily get themselves cut (on a broken glass bauble, for example) or burned by candle flames or hot fairy lights. Cats also love to play pounce with tinsel and ribbons, but if swallowed they can form a “linear foreign body”, cutting into the intestinal walls. find out more about what you can do with advice from Cats Protection

Dogs, on the other hand, are more likely to try eating things – and any ornament can cause an intestinal blockage, or break and cut the mouth or bowel.

Christmas trees are a particular threat, as to cats they are nice climbing frames (potentially resulting in it raining cats as well as needles), while to dogs they are a convenient urinal (which may result in electric shocks in a rather unfortunate location).

The simplest way to avoid injuries is by preventing pets from having any unsupervised contact with ornaments or decorations!

PREVENT POISONING

“So bring us a figgy pudding, so bring us a figgy pudding, so bring us a figgy pudding and bring it out here…” Sadly, so many of our festive favourites can be toxic to our pets. Most people know how dangerous chocolate is for dogs (and the darker the chocolate, the more toxic it is). However, did you know that coffee, peanuts, Macadamia nuts, onions, and even raisins and dried fruit are all poisonous to dogs and cats? So no slices of Christmas pudding, mince pies, festive nuts, sage and onion stuffing for our pets! The Dogs Trust have created a Doggy Christmas Menu – especially designed with dogs in mind!

In addition, cooked bones are highly dangerous as they can splinter in the mouth or gut, leading to sharp wounds and even perforated bowels. So, watch out for left-over turkey carcasses!

Finally, be very careful not to give them too much rich food and treats – dogs and cats do not thrive on rapidly changing diets, and a sudden change can lead to nasty vomiting and diarrhoea. Likewise, rabbits shouldn’t have too many seeds and treats, but make sure they have plenty of good quality hay.


Christmas with pets can be great fun for both of you, but you do have to take certain precautions! If in doubt, contact your local Goddard vet for more advice.

Responsible use and disposal of Medicines

To reduce the environmental risk of the disposal of medicines in general waste we encourage you to return unused medicines to the practice for safe disposal:

  • Flushing medicines down the sink or toilet can lead to contamination of waterways
  • Putting them in the bin at home means they end up in landfill

We can arrange for safe and legal disposal of your unused or out-of-date medications to reduce this risk so please return them to your practice reception.

Responsible Use of Antibiotics

Antibiotic resistance is recognised by WHO as one of the greatest risks to human health, and consequently, animal health.

Antibiotics cannot be prescribed to your pet without being examined by a Veterinary Surgeon and this includes topical products such as ear drops.

It is always important to use the course as directed by your veterinary surgeon and complete the course to the recommended length. Please speak to a member of the team if you have any problems administering the medication.

We may recommend tests to see which antibiotic is most effective for your pet’s condition and to check for antibiotic resistance and this may involve taking a swab to look at the bacteria under a microscope and grow – “culture” – the bacteria to test the antibiotics.

Preventative Healthcare

Preventing disease is a really important way to reduce the environmental impact of healthcare.

Vaccinating your pet against infectious diseases and preventing parasite infections is very important for animal welfare and to prevent illness in your pet. It is also much cheaper and has less environmental impact to prevent a disease than to treat it.

We use risk assessments of your pet’s lifestyle to tailor preventative healthcare to your pet’s needs and recommend regular checkups to monitor their health and weight to detect early signs of disease and prevent the risk of chronic conditions like obesity. Find out more about our preventative healthcare plan, ProActive Pets.

Responsible Use of Parasiticides

Watch our video guide to applying spot-on flea treatment to your dog or video on how to apply spot-on flea treatments for cats.

  • Always read the product label and leaflet for correct administration and frequency of use
  • If using a topical product, don’t bathe your pet or let them swim for 4 days after application
  • Always bin and bag pet poo to help prevent parasites and treatments from spreading in the environment
  • Please speak to a member of the team if you have problems applying a treatment – we have a number of options under ProActive Pets

For further information, read the BVA’s Responsible use of parasiticides for cats and dogs: The five point plan.

How to cut your dog’s nails safely at home

Keeping your dog’s nails trimmed is an important aspect of pet care, but many pet owners struggle with the task. Nail cutting can be stressful for both the dog and the owner, especially if the owner is inexperienced or the dog has a nervous personality.

Taking your dog for regular walks on hard surfaces such as pavements will help to keep their nails short, although this isn’t enough in most cases. If your dog’s nails get too long, they’re at risk of being torn off on carpet, furniture or when outdoors.

In this short guide, we will show you the best way to cut your dog’s nails at home in a safe and stress-free way. Whether you’re a new dog owner or have been caring for a furry friend for years, we will provide you with all the tips and tricks you need to ensure a smooth and successful nail-cutting process.

Preparation

Clipping your dog’s nails can be tricky and is often very anxiety-inducing for your pet. There are a few steps you should take before you try to cut your dog’s nails for the first time to make the process much easier, especially if you have a puppy.

”My dog won’t let me cut their nails”

This is something we hear all the time. Getting your dog used to nail clippers is a huge step in ensuring a stress-free and safe grooming experience for both you and your furry friend. Here are some steps you can follow to help your dog get used to nail clippers:

  • Start slow: Introduce your dog to the clippers gradually, letting them sniff and inspect the clippers before any actual clipping takes place. This will help them feel more comfortable with the tool.
  • Positive reinforcement: Reward your dog for good behaviours, such as allowing you to touch their paws or letting you hold the clippers near their paw, with treats or praise.
  • Practice touching paws: Regularly handling and massaging your dog’s paws will help them become comfortable with having their paws touched and manipulated.
  • Short clipping sessions: Begin with short clipping sessions, slowly increasing the duration as your dog becomes more comfortable. This will help them adjust to the sensation of having their nails trimmed.
  • Patience: Getting your dog used to nail clippers can take time, so be patient and never force the process. If your dog becomes distressed, stop and try again another time.

What you’ll need…

  • Pet nail clippers: It’s important to use sharp nail clippers, and best to use those specifically made for pets. You can use human clippers if they’re sharp, but don’t use human nail scissors.
  • Good lighting: Cut your dog’s nails in a room that is well lit. This is so you can see where to make the cut and avoid hitting “the quick”, which is the sensitive part of the nail that contains nerves and blood vessels. Catching this can cause bleeding and pain.
  • A partner: If your dog is particularly nervous or resistant to having their nails clipped, it can be useful to ask someone to help you. This could be to support the restraining of the dog or keeping them calm.
  • Lots of treats: Have a supply of treats on hand to reward your dog for being a good boy/girl throughout the session! This is vital for positive reinforcement.

It’s important to note that if your dog’s nails are growing into the skin or they are particularly anxious or aggressive, you shouldn’t attempt to clip them yourself. In a scenario like this, it’s best to contact your vet.

How to clip your dog’s nails: step by step

  1. Get your dog comfortable: Make sure your dog is relaxed and comfortable and give them plenty of praise and treats to help them feel at ease.
  2. Position your dog facing away from you: The person holding the dog should have one hand cradling the head and the other reaching over the dog’s shoulder to extend the leg, using the pressure of their arm to help calm the dog’s body. Hold the leg up around the elbow. It is important that you both feel comfortable that your dog is not at risk of biting you or your partner.
  3. Examine your dog’s paws: Take a close look at your dog’s paws and get familiar with their nails. Look for “the quick”, the pink part of the nail that contains nerves and blood vessels, and avoid cutting it.
  4. Start slow: Start with just one or two nails at a time, taking each, in turn, to allow your dog to get used to the process before proceeding. Press down near the nail bed to make it more visible.
  5. Make the cut: Hold the clippers at a 45-degree angle, and cut the nail just before the quick. If you accidentally cut the quick, use a piece of kitchen towel to apply pressure to the area. Any bleeding should stop after approximately five minutes, but if it continues, contact your vet.
  6. Reward your dog: After each successful cut, reward your dog with praise and a treat. This will help build a positive association with the nail-cutting process.
  7. Repeat: Repeat the process with each nail, and be sure to take breaks if your dog becomes uncomfortable or restless.

If you are in need of further advice or are concerned your dog may bite you during the nail clipping, book an appointment with your local Goddard vet practice or get in touch with our Central Clinical team at 020 8506 9944.

A simple guide to applying ear drops to your dog

Applying ear drops to your dog can be a daunting task for any pet owner. However, with the proper knowledge and technique, administering ear drops to your furry friend can be a simple and stress-free process.

In this guide, our very own vet, Victoria, will walk you through the proper way to apply ear drops to your dog. This includes how to properly clean the ear, the best way to administer the medication, and how to monitor your dog’s recovery. With the right approach and care, you can ensure that your dog receives the treatment they need to maintain its ear health. So, let’s get started!

Before application

In preparation for treating your dog, you should always aim to apply medicated drops to a clean ear. Watch our video above on how to clean your dog’s ears before applying any drops.

It’s important to consider that your dog may be in some pain or discomfort with its ear and might not respond well to you cleaning/treating the area. Even the calmest, gentle, and most passive dog may react with a struggle, bark, growl, or even bite. To avoid this, be cautious and patient with your dog. For particularly reactive or anxious dogs, you may find it useful to apply a muzzle before the procedure for added safety.

How to easily apply ear drops to your dog

  1. Wait 15 minutes after cleaning your dog’s ears before you begin applying the medicated ear drops.
  2. Check the medication label, including the dose and frequency of application. The instruction sheet supplied with the drops will give you advice on how to use that particular ear treatment.
  3. Make sure that your dog is in a comfortable position. If you have a small dog, positioning them on your lap is a good idea. Otherwise, laying them down on a flat surface or sitting them in front of you can make applying ear drops easier.
  4. Prepare the medication according to the instructions that accompany the bottle. You can roll the bottle in your hand to warm up the liquid beforehand so that it’s not as cold before applying it to the ear.
  5. Whilst holding the pointy end of the ear up, you can introduce the nozzle of the bottle/pipette to the ear canal and carefully begin to apply the number of drops stated on the label. Sometimes it can be difficult to know how much pressure to apply to form a drop, so it can be useful to practice on a piece of kitchen roll first if you are unsure.
  6. Once the drops are applied, you can gently massage around the base of the ear in a circular motion. This helps the medication reach the whole of the ear canal. If your dog is in any discomfort, they may not let you do this – be gentle and patient with them.
  7. After applying the drops, your dog will begin head shaking. Don’t worry – this is normal. Now, move on to the next ear, if it also needs treatment, and repeat!

Treating your dog’s ear infection with antibiotics

When treating your dog with antibiotic ear drops, it’s crucial to adhere to the correct dosage instructions provided to you. Avoid breaks in treatment and be sure to attend your follow-up appointments as advised. As long as you follow these guidelines, you should expect to see your furry friend back to their best in no time!

Dogs can be prone to recurrent ear infections. If your dog has had a flare-up and you have not seen a vet recently, please arrange a check-up before treating at home. Never apply old ear drops that you’ve given to your dog previously without a check-up beforehand – you need to make sure you have enough for a full course of treatment recommended by a vet.

If you are having trouble administering the treatment or you notice a head tilt
developing after using medicated drops that don’t seem to be returning to normal, please contact your local Goddard vet practice or get in touch with our Central Clinical team.

Useful tips for applying ear drops to your dog

  • Help get your dog used to ear drops by presenting them with treats and other items like toys with the treatment bottle around. Over time, your dog will begin to associate the treatment with something positive, rather than a negative outcome. You can try this several times a day to acclimate your dog to the ear drops.
  • Make an effort to message your dog’s ears as regularly as possible. This will get the dog used to you touching their ears and the areas around them, making applying treatments like ear drops more ordinary to the dog.
  • Choose a quiet environment within your home to apply the ear drops. Choosing somewhere with no distractions will help to relax your dog, especially if it can get anxious. This can make the application process much easier.

If you need further advice, book an appointment with your local Goddard vet practice, or get in touch with our Central Clinical Team at 020 8506 9944.

How Can I Tell If My Pet’s Overweight?

It can be hard, we know! However, our vets and nurses can weigh your pet and assess their body condition score (BCS) which is a method of categorising weight, ranging from 1 (very thin) to 5 (obese), with 3 being normal and healthy. You can also do some checks at home:

  • Look from above. Your pet should go in a little at the waist. If not, they may be overweight.
  • Feeling along the side of the chest, you should be able to feel the ribs. They should not be under a thick layer of fat, but they should also not be sticking out.
  • Feeling along the back of your pet, the spine and hip bones should not be sticking out but should be easy to feel.
  • Look and feel underneath your pet for any bulges.

It’s estimated that around 60% of dogs and 39-52% of cats in the UK are overweight or obese. A report by Royal Canin found 80% of dog owners stated their pet was an ideal weight, but 40% knew neither their pet’s weight nor body condition score. 74% of cat owners believed their cat was an ideal weight, but nearly two thirds (65%) acknowledged not knowing their cat’s current weight and/or body condition score.


Does it matter if my pet is overweight?

Pets who are a healthy weight are more likely to enjoy a happy and healthy life. Here are some reasons why:

  • Older pets often suffer from degenerative joint disease (arthritis). Being overweight can speed the progression of arthritis and the pain caused, ultimately reducing the quality and quantity of their life. Simple mechanics mean a dog weighing 20 kg that should weigh 15kg will place 33% more force through each limb. Even a small weight reduction can make a huge difference to their quality of life.
  • Being overweight increases the chance of diabetes in dogs and cats. Diabetes shortens life, can come with complications, and usually requires lifelong insulin injections. This poses a significant time and financial commitment for owners.
  • Obesity is not known to increase the risk of coronary heart disease as in people, but it does have adverse effects on cardiac and pulmonary function and blood pressure.
  • Operations are more risky for all pets that are overweight.
  • Rabbits naturally eat a part of their faeces known as caecotrophs, which helps recycle enzymes enabling them to digest roughage. If they are overweight, they will not be able to groom or to reach their bottom to eat these caecotrophs.
  • Obese or overweight cats are more at risk of hepatic lipidosis and lower urinary tract disease, both of which can be very serious or even fatal.

What can I do?

We can check your pet’s body condition score and weight, and perform an examination looking for other health issues, especially ones that may be weight related.

We can recommend a regime to help your pet lose weight, but it is important not to lose weight too rapidly. We aim for no more than 1-2% of their starting weight each week.

If they are only slightly overweight then feeding a bit less, or changing to a lower-calorie food may be all that’s needed. Pets needing more drastic weight loss may need a special diet, as reducing their food too much may mean they go hungry or with insufficient nutrients. A food diary for a week may highlight where your pet is getting extra calories. Each weight loss plan we suggest is individual and would involve exercise as part of the weight loss regime, but here are some general points:

  • Good pet food companies produce food for varying life-stages, as a developing pup, for example, will have different needs to an ageing dog.
  • Take the nutritional information of your current food along to your appointment and our team can assess if it’s appropriate for your pet.
  • Feeding a complete commercial pet food is the easiest way to ensure your pet gets the nutrients they need. Use feeding guidelines and weigh the food out. It seems obvious, but pets that eat too much get fat.
  • Treats and scraps on top of a complete food will unbalance the diet and most likely be turned into fat.
  • Pet lifestyle makes a difference. In the same way, an elite athlete will need more calories than an office-worker, a working greyhound or sheepdog will need more calories than a sedentary dog.
  • If considering a diet change, do it slowly to avoid upsetting the gut.

Dogs:

  • Prefer regular mealtimes. Ideally, split your dog’s daily food into two equal-sized meals, meaning your dog will be less hungry and eat more slowly. It may also help them sleep and make it less tempting to treat.

Cats:

  • Are obligate carnivores, meaning they cannot survive without meat. They cannot produce an amino acid called taurine (a protein building block) which can only be found in meat. Without it, they can develop a severe heart condition called dilated cardiomyopathy and even blindness. Their gut is not designed to digest a plant-based diet, just like a cow’s gut is not designed for a meat-based diet.
  • Prefer to graze, eating 8-16 times daily, so have food available all the time weighing out the daily quota. Most cats are very good at self-regulating but some are greedy, and with these cats, meals may be needed.
  • That drink milk often gets tummy upsets due to the lactose.

Rabbits should:

  • Eat around 50% of the time so they need at least their body size in good quality hay per day to keep boredom at bay, to keep their gut health and to keep their continually growing teeth worn down.
  • Have a handful of fresh vegetables, morning and evening. They love carrots, but as they are high in sugar, use them sparingly.
  • Have an eggcup of commercial rabbit nuggets (NOT muesli-type mix) once a day if under 3.5kg, or twice a day if larger. If fed too many nuggets, they may eat less hay and veg which are both vital for rabbit health.